Wednesday, March 28, 2012

Thai Leslie Knope

“Yellow haired female… likes waffles and news.”
“The bankrupt government of Pawnee has been shut down all summer so it’s been three months of no work, no meetings, no memos, no late nights, nothing. I wouldn’t wish it on my worst enemy.” -Leslie Knope


The Sub-District Administrative Office, or Tessaban, where I work is bureaucracy incarnate. It's decentralization and inefficiency nicely packaged in a three-story air-conditioned building. Basically, it's TV's Parks and Recreation. 
Like it's Indiana doppelganger, the Pawnee City Hall, my Tessaban concerns itself primarily with community development- canvassing, event-planning,  focus goups, taks forces and yes, park-building. As the blondest person in the office, I am by default, Leslie Knope. But if I'm Thai Leslie, who's Thai Ron Swanson?



Sunday, March 25, 2012

Dek Dek

Dek Dek- Children
เด็ก ๆ

Last Thursday I taught Pre-School English. Now, before you shutter, let me tell you that I like Thai kids. The same language barrier that keeps me from cultivating profound relationships with my peers, helps me make friends with Sukhothai's younger residents. We don't have a lot to talk about, but there's a competitive spirit that keeps it interesting. Like yesterday, I had a conversatin with a baby that ended with me saying, "Ha ha, I speak Thai better than you."

I also like Thai kids because they have funny nicknames. English is King in the ASEAN countries and parents try to keep ahead of the curve by giving their newborns a practical Enlgish-language nickname. But mostly they fall short and you meet kids named, Neptune, Pizza, Fat, Benz, Golf, Noodle, or Seven Eleven. My favorite example so far is the twin girls in my pres-school class nick-named, Nick and Name.

They may be too young to actually learn anything, but I'm looking forward to teaching English to six-year-olds for three to four hours a week.

Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Planet Heston


Every couple of weeks my Krupkrua takes a trip to Thai Walmart, called Tesco- it’s like American Walmart but with a KFC inside. This is a stressful time for me. There’s brightly-colored packaging, signs inThai, and delightfully tacky advertising. But I can’t stop to look because my Thai family will notice my passing interest and ask if they can buy whatever it is for me.
If I see a pink bag with a puppy on it and ask what it is, “Oh, that’s fabric softener. Do you want some? Can we buy it?” If an interestingly-shaped bottle catches my eye for a moment too long, “Oh, you like whiskey? Why didn’t you tell us you like whiskey? What’s your favorite brand? Let’s buy it.”
In the car yesterday I wondered if the same ask (or see)-and-you-shall-receive principals apply to bai-tiao, a Thai mini-vacation. I’d heard there were monkeys in a neighboring province and decided to plant some bai-tiao seeds. I asked my host, Naam, is she had been to Lopburi to see the monkeys. My Paw jumped right in, “You like monkeys? Why didn’t you tell us you like monkeys? Naam doesn’t like monkeys. Do you want to go to Lopburi?’
“Yes, at some point I would like to go to Lopburi.” The “at some point” was completely lost, Paw turned the car around and we were headed to Monkey Land.





Indian Architecture



Lopburi was the least disappointing thing I have ever seen. It’s famous for 12th century Indian architecture and the monkeys that terrorize tourists. Monkeys run Lopburi.  As I fed them beasts sunflower seeds, I felt like Charleton bravely confronting Planet of the Apes…or maybe like Angelina Jolie because I’m pretty sure the film, Tomb Raider was filmed there.


Might as well say, "Beware of Terrorists"

All day, we took lots of pictures of my and the monkeys. Thai monkeys are far less friendly than their human compatriots, but they were generally patient as we posed for pictures together. At dusk all the monkeys went somewhere to sleep. I asked where but I didn’t understand the answer.  I just said, “Good night monkeys. I miss you.” And we all laughed. I couldn’t stop smiling because I knew I had manipulated my family into having the best day ever.







Thursday, March 1, 2012

Tequila! or why this Post is not about What You Think it is About


In 6th grade after getting as good as I'd ever be at the violin without practicing, I decided to try my unpracticing hand at the French horn. In the first week of 6th grade band I learned to play Hot Crossed Buns. By Winter Concert I could play Hot Cross Buns and the few measures of the 1958 hit, Tequila! (I wouldn’t understand the exclamation after Tequila for several more years).
Tequila! Was the first song in the set.  I played a few bars and sat back to pretend to play for the rest of the concert. Actually, sitting back might have been my first mistake, as this is not the proper posture for French Horn playing. I would press the keys and inflate my cheeks unconvincingly. While pretending to play I’d be distracted by the unlit scoreboard or a sneezing parent.  Then I’d go back to making chipmunk cheeks for a few bars until I started fantasizing about the trumpeter I had a crush on. My first visit to Sukhothai was a lot like my first French Horn concert.
In Sukhothai, my soon-to-be coworkers drove me around in a government van to meet every dignitary (and I use this word loosely) in town.  At each office, after I flashed a big toothy Thai smile and wai’d like a pro, the Tequila! charade would begin.  My three minute Thai introduction was much like the first few notes of the song, well-rehearsed but hard to listen to. My Thai elevator speech prompted each administrator to turn to my counterpart for a Thai-to-Thai translation. From then on I was bypassed in all my conversations. I sat back and listened as the more competent people played the songs…I mean spoke Thai.
I would try to pay attention. There was a lot to be gleaned from the 40% of my own resume I understood. Luckily I’m more motivated to learn Thai than I was brass instruments. But there were so many things to look at, things much more interesting than anything in the Sandburg Middle School gym.
For one, in the early stages of reading Thai, every word is like a puzzle I must solve. It won’t surprise you to learn that I dig puzzles. For me, all of Thailand is covered in the New York Times Friday Crossword (Friday because I can only get about a third of it). I dare you to conduct an interview in a room wall-papered in crosswords.
Strange Mountains in Sukhothai
Then in the conversation I catch the word “gaan-ga-seet.” Oh okay, I know this one…agriculture. I’m going to be working in agriculture. I focused my attention on whichever unfortunate low-ranking official I was meeting with, smile and repeat, “gaan-ga-seet.”
Suddenly I’m in fine sixth grade form, puffing my cheeks like a pro, feigning comprehension and interest. I fix my attention on the Director of Informal Education but just behind are these weird round mountains that just demand attention.
I think my PC Training Manager worried I might lack concentration because during me Placement Interview she asked me if I get bored easily. I wouldn't say bored. My own thoughts scare me but they never bore me. I told her no. 
My band director probably worried the same thing but playing in the band never bored me either, I had plenty of thoughts to keep me busy while my classmates played instruments. 
I've gotten a little better at covering my tracks. In 6th grade when everybody stood up to yell, "Tequila!" at the end of the song, (is this appropriate for middle school?) I just sat there stupidly realizing much too late I missed my cue. At the Office of Agriculture I zoned in just in time to give another wai and thank the officer very much for his time. And my character has developed some too. After the winter concert I quit band so I would never have to play in a concert again. After Sukhothai I went back to Sing Buri to work my ass off learning Thai so I will rock all future interviews.

Dawn of Language


This is a translation of my new Thai language Sukhothai elevator speech. I think my weak language skills really come through:

I will live in Sukhothai. It's in North Thailand. It has lots of fried peanuts and a historical park. It has some mountains and lots of chickens. The name means Dawn of Happiness. The people are nice in Sukhothai. In Sukhothai I will work at an office and help farmers.


Historical Park




Friday, February 17, 2012

There Will Be Cheese


Sometimes it feels like I grew up too fast. It's how I feel celebrating my 21st birthday in Thailand post-grad. I can’t help but feel like I’m missing out on the debauchery of American 21st birthdays. A quiet dinner with my host family is not the rowdy climax I anticipated for turning legal.

 Because my birthday would not involve trashy college bars and vodka, I made sure it did include my third favorite thing, cheese ;) Cheese in Thailand comes at a high price. The going rate is 80 baht, which should buy  dinner buy dinner for a family of four. Still a Sconnie needs cheese on her birthday, especially when someone else is paying.

There were other highlights on my special day. Several volunteer friends showed off their art skills and made  birthday cards.  I got lots of birthday hugs. I capped off the workday with a birthday bee-ah lee-oh, Beer Leo.

My host family was waiting in the car when I got home, ready to take me out for a birthday dinner. The food at the restaurant was actually so good it reminded me that I like Thai food.There were relatives and cake and presents. I received a big stuffed penguin. My host family said, "Geng Mak" when I learned the Thai word so quickly (the word by the way, is penguin).

On the way home I couldn’t help but smile to myself. It’s incredible to be half way around the world and have a second family and friends who make sure I had a happy birthday. Growing up too fast lead me to Thailand and I can't complain about that.

And as I final birthday treat to myself, I am about to watch several illegally downloaded episodes of 30 Rock. Then it’s off to bed for some sweet Alec Baldwin dreaming.

Saturday, February 4, 2012

A Sanitary Rubber Bag

As someone who used to sleep with a linguist I'm very interested in the co-development of language and culture. It's fascinating how a culture meets it's lexical needs and in turn how the vocabulary that is created further shapes the culture.


 Some may have heard my favorite example of this idea (because I talk about it all the time). Us gringo-farangs, generally think that your future lies ahead and your past is behind. For me this cultural bias wasn't challenged until I studied Quechua. In Quechua, the word  for future shares a root work with the word for behind and conversely the word for past shares a root word with forward. I don't pretend to understand all of the cultural implications of this paradigm but I'm guessing Back to the Future is not an intriguing film.

After a month in Thailand I don't feel ready to make sweeping judgement about the Thai language either, but I'll share an interesting observations. Thai is a mono-syllabic language, meaning that most simple ideas have one syllable words. More complex thoughts are made into words by stringing together several simple words. Here are some of my favorite Thai compound words (so far) broken down for you. Note that it may be impossible to over-emphasize the cultural importance of the first term on this list.



Meal- กินข้าว
gin-khaao- eat rice


Condom- ถุงยางอนามัย
thoong-yaang-a-naa-mai- sanitary rubber bag


Ice- น้ำแข็ง
nam-khaeng- hard water 


Economics- การแจกจ่าย
gaan-jaaek-jaai- the activity of exchanging money


Telephone- โทรศัพท์
toh-ra-sap- remote vocabulary

Nap- นอนเล่น
naawn len- play sleep


Development- เจริญก้าวหน้า
ja-reern-gaao-naa- to take a step towards progress